Author: Warren

We Rediscover Cana Vineyards

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https://transculturalexchange.org/y5f9t68ff Paul and I continue to slowly travel the wine trails of Virginia, and our last trek took us to Cana Vineyards. We had not been to Cana in quite a few years, and we learned that the winery is now owned by Lisa and Bryce Petty. They purchased the vineyard and winery from the Bell family in 2018. Co-owners Michelle and Tom Grant are now also part of the Cana team. The Cana facility now includes the expansive Sunset Pavilion which provided for adequate spacing of customers on a very cold afternoon.

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Another noted change from our last visit, though, was the improved quality of the wines. I am an unashamed Chardonnay lover, and Cana’s 2019 Chardonnay hit all the right notes for me. It was elegant and well balanced with lovely pear and apple aromas, while the palate was treated to pear and citrus flavors accented with fall spice and a touch of oak. The 2019 Petit Manseng was another success and an example of what this variety can do in Virginia when in the right hands. Fresh tropical notes with a nice, refreshing acidity ended with a dry finish and destined to pair well with any seafood dish. The 2018 Le Mariage, a blend of Bordeaux varieties with Merlot taking the lead, presented a juicy berry entry on the palate followed by a spicy edge on the finish. Remember, 2018 was a very tricky vintage due to lots of rain and not a lot of sunshine in most parts of Virginia; however, a newcomer to Virginia wine would not have been the wiser after sampling this well-crafted blend. Paul’s favorite was the Cabernet Franc produced from the stellar 2017 harvest. Raspberry and tobacco notes melded with cherry flavors to present a rich wine made more complex by barrel-aging for 15 months. If leg of lamb is on the menu, it might be a good idea to have a bottle of this one on the wine rack as a pairing option.

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Our tasting experience was enhanced by the expert knowledge of Don, a familiar face to us from previous visits to Cana (and Chrysalis before that!). Don got us up to speed on the various changes at the winery since our last visit which prompted me to inquire about the winemaker responsible for the improvements noted in the wines. He informed us Melanie Natoli assumed the duties of winemaker and vineyard manager in 2015; we then recalled that Melanie studied winemaking at Fabbioli Cellars. We decided it was time to learn more about Melanie, and she agreed to participate in an interview. (Ordinarily, we would arrange to do this in person, but—-covid.) Continue reading to learn more about the very talented Melanie Natoli.

Melanie Natoli
Photo borrowed from the Cana Vineyards website.

https://foster2forever.com/2024/08/9ba2ui2q.html 1. Why did you decide to switch careers from being in physical therapy to becoming a wine makers?
I followed my heart. When I make big decisions, I go with my gut. Growing up, no one in my family drank, so I found wine later. Hence, it wasn’t my first career choice, but when I found it, I knew it was my path.

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https://polyploid.net/blog/?p=mo5iixt19 2. Have you found any comparisons between being a physical therapist and a winemaker? Any similar challenges? Rewards?
Good question. They both come from the heart. I’ve always loved science and I chose physical therapy so I could be of service to others. Compassion is rooted in the heart, and so is creative passion for art, winemaking. As a winemaker I still get to connect with people, just in a different way.

https://www.clawscustomboxes.com/0q08gdofz2o 3. Why did you decide to become a winemaker in Virginia with its various challenges? Why not someplace like California, for example?
Virginia is where life put me. Virginia is where my love and interest in wine grew. I was close to moving to California and going back to school for a degree in winemaking, but I found/made my own path here and I’m so glad I did. The challenges we face here may cause me to lose a lot of sleep at times, but they’re also what keeps it exciting. There’s always going to be more to learn and I love that.

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Sometimes. Starting in this industry as a woman and someone coming in with no experience or connections, I do feel I had to work harder to prove myself, so I have. I’ve had a few interactions that weren’t fair, but I kept my head down, worked harder, and poured myself into my wine. Now I’m proud of what I put in the bottle and I have confidence in my abilities, so that kind of stuff can roll off my back. I’ve only made wine in Virginia, but I have a suspicion the challenge would be greater in other regions. Our industry is young enough that a long history of a good ol boys club wasn’t built. Although there may still be more men working in our industry, the women are here and making their mark. The supportive community of Virginia winemakers is one of the things that makes our region so amazing.

https://merangue.com/7sbt1koi4h https://merangue.com/9gj5vn0 5. What grape varieties do you grow at Cana? Which do you consider to be the flagships at Cana? Do you have plans to expand your portfolio beyond what is currently planted?
Reds: Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Norton
Whites: Petit Maseng, Viognier

https://blog.extraface.com/2024/08/07/ndwec6m07 We have 2 wines that I produce from our estate fruit. The Unite’ Reserve is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. The blend will vary depending on what shines in the vineyard each year. The other estate wine is our Petit Manseng which often has some of the estate Viognier blended in.

Purchasing Xanax Online Legal We only have 7 acres on the estate, so we also source from some fantastic partner growers. The 2 estate wines have a special place in my heart because I work the vineyard all season, so those wines I craft every step of the way from budbreak to bottle, but I have some other favorites. I’ve been working with Albarino since 2015, my first vintage at Cana, and I’ve had so much fun developing it. And did you think you’d talk to me without hearing about rose’? That is my number one love. If I’m going to be remembered as a winemaker for one thing, I want it to be dry rose’. Right now, we have 2 in our portfolio, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

https://solomedicalsupply.com/2024/08/07/g8k2m7rbe As far as new wines for the portfolio. I have two new red varietals hitting the bottle in April, so keep an eye out for them at the end of this year. I’d like to bring back Rkatsiteli, and I always want to make more rose’.

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I love this one! I also love the idea of a trip to a tropical island, much needed indeed! Since I make 2 rose’s, that’s 2 of the bottles! Because rose’. The 3rd is a tough choice, because I really love my Albarino, but Petit Manseng would be the perfect pairing for somewhere tropical. That’d be a gametime decision, when do I leave? And for vintages, 2019 or 2020. Those are my favorite white vintages so far, because each year I get to dial it in a little better. Although I may go 2017 for the Petit Maseng, I really loved the acid sweetness balance on that bottle.

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Buy Xanax From Usa We know that we will return to Cana Vineyards sooner rather than later. However, if readers get there before we do, please be sure to mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you!

Happy New Year!

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https://udaan.org/c9lg1whu.php We have not posted in a while, but rest assured that while we have not really been on the Virginia wine trails, we have indeed been enjoying Virginia wines. We always host a NYE party for friends to ring in the new year with lots of food and wine; however, that was not the case this year for obvious reasons. Paul and I did, though, include Virginia wines in this year’s low key event. We paired Blenheim’s 2019 Gruner Veltliner with Asian slaw and mini crab cakes, and we partnered Beef Vidala (filet mignon topped with crab meat) with Glen Manor’s 2015 Hodder Hill. Our wine racks, though, lacked Virginia bubbles; however, Schramsberg bubbly helped to ring in 2021.

Buy 3 Mg Xanax Online We are hopeful that Virginia Wine Time will be posting more often this year. In the meantime, let us know of new wineries to visit—-we are making a list and checking it twice! Do you plan to visit the wineries mentioned in this post? Please mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you!

Reflecting on Summer 2020

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Fall is already upon us, and we look forward to cooler weather and changing colors. This usually means changing wine tasting habits to heavier pours and heartier meals. However, our trip to the Charlottesville area reminded me that some wines, even Virginia wines, are versatile and meant to be enjoyed throughout the year. Here I will present some examples based on our tasing experience in August.

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Albarino and Sauvignon Blanc: These two varieties continue to show well in certain regions of Virginia. Micro-climate is key with these. I continue to be impressed with the Albarino produced by Afton Mountain Vineyards, and the 2019 vintage is very good. One bottle came back to our cottage for a crab cake dinner, and three other bottles came home for future enjoyment. Speaking of seafood, the local oyster season should continue through the fall and both the 2018 Sauvignon Blanc from Stinson Vineyards and 2019 vintage of the same grape from Veritas are option to consider when enjoying freshly shucked bivalves from local watersheds.

Online Xanax Prescription Chardonnay: I am a fan of Chardonnay, and I don’t care what ABCers think about it! Virginia Chardonnay often sits in the shadow of the more marketed Viognier; however, I think Chardonnay is the more consistent hitmaker. Styles range, of course, so taste and purchase your own favorites. Pollak Vineyards’ 2018 vintage presents a more fruit-forward, lighter-bodied style while the 2018 vintage from Hark Vineyards presents a fuller-bodied style complete with a toasty edge consistent with some barrel aging. The 2019 bottling from Keswick Vineyards was my favorite—-lots of apple and pear notes with enough body to enjoy on its own or with food. Shellfish, roasted poultry, creamy cheeses—-all should play well with this Burgundy-style Chardonnay.

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https://inteligencialimite.org/2024/08/07/x1l95iy Best Price Xanax Online Petit Manseng: This grape continues to evolve as a contender for the Virginia All-Star variety. It is also one that we continue to grapple with—-do we prefer this as a dessert wine or something to serve with the main meal? Different wineries produce different styles and range from acidic to sweet and everything in between. To be honest, only a few have captured my attention enough to bring home; however, the Michael Shaps 2017 Petit Manseng did indeed capture my palate. Blended with 11% Rousanne and aged in 50% new French oak and 50% neutral French oak barrels for a total of nine months, this Petit Manseng captured the tropical fruit notes and full mouth feel of Rhone white wines. Poultry, including Thanksgiving turkey, herb-crusted pork loin and other roasted fare should partner nicely with this blend.

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Never fall into the trap that Rose is a summer sipper. Rosés are the most versatile wines, and they are produced in both dry and off-dry styles. In Virginia, some Rosés feature Merlot or Cabernet Franc, and others capture the fruity essence of Chambourcin. One of our favorites was the Crose 2019 from King Family Vineyards. Dry and reminiscent of Provence-style Rosé, we always have bottles of this one on the wine rack throughout the year. Serve with Thanksgiving dinner, New Years’ Eve party, etc. The same could be said of the 2018 Rosé from Afton Mountain Vineyards—-dry, crisp and refreshing.

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Cabernet Franc: Always a consistent favorite of Virginia wine lovers. Most of the wineries that we visited were offering the lighter-bodied 2018 vintage. Any of these could be an option for Thanksgiving dinner when a lighter-bodied red might be in order. The 2018 vintage from Hark Vineyards, for example, exhibited soft red berry and subtle herbal notes that could partner with turkey stuffed with herbs. On the other hand, feel free to serve these with grilled chicken while the weather is warm.

Merlot: This is another variety that can do well in Virginia. Paul is a fan of this grape, and he enjoyed the 2017 Merlot from Chateau MerrillAnne. A fruity palate and nice acidity makes it a favorite to pair with either grilled filet of beef or wait to pour with a roasted beef tenderloin when the leaves have fallen from the trees. The same is true of the 2017 vintage from Pollak Vineyards—-pour now with a final grilled beef dinner or allow to rest a bit longer on the wine rack.

How To Get Real Xanax Online https://udaan.org/u45ezq1kb.php Red Blends: I think Bordeaux-style blends always present the best from Virginia red wines. We currently have a 2017 Melange a Quatre, a gold medal winner from Revelation Vineyards, on our wine rack and is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon (+1% Tannat). We were also able to sample the blockbuster 2019 Trevillian from Keswick Vineyards, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Of course, no comment on blends would be complete without mentioning the always delicious, always complex Octagon. We indulged in a library tasting of the reserve wines at Barboursville, and the Octagon XVIII Edition 2015 was stunning. Any of blends mentioned here would be a contender for either aging a bit longer or enjoying now (decant first) with heartier meats or braised fare on a chilly evening.

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We continue to venture cautiously to Virginia wineries, and we were lucky to be able to visit the wineries mentioned in this post during the weekdays. Now that we are back in weekend mode, we will return to more selective visits. Please plan a tasting (but plan ahead) to the wineries mentioned in this post. Of course, do mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you!

Virginia Wine Time Begins Its Phase 2

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We continue to be a couple of weeks behind the rest of the local area in regard to venturing out; however, we are indeed getting back however slowly on the wine trails. Paul and I took a short vacation to the Charlottesville area recently, and we made full use of our time to visit several of the wineries there. We will capture our experiences in the next couple of posts.

*Disclaimer: This trip was taken almost three weeks ago; needless to say, we are behind in posting. Therefore, we avoided associated specific wineries with the practices described below since these protocols may have changed since then. The key words will always be “plan ahead.”

3Mg Xanax Bars Online Our wine ventures to the Monticello AVA were scheduled for weekday visits to the wineries, and we do this to avoid crowds—-we like to maximize the distancing potential! The focus of this post will be a summary of how wineries in the area honored Phase 2 guidelines while offering optimal service to customers. Future posts will be more specific about wineries, wines, and our favorite pours.

We can report that wineries are indeed complying with state guidelines in regard to Phase 2 of reopening, and we know that these are relieved to be able to open the doors (and pours) once again. However, keeping winery staff and customers safe has added new layers to business practices; in particular, the tasting experience has had to be amended so that customers can taste wines before purchase and/or remain for an extended period of time beyond a tasting. Here is what we encountered:

Reservations: Some wineries required reservations but others did not. Plan ahead to avoid disappointment. Know which wineries you would like to visit and then either visit the websites or call to be certain in order to avoid disappointment. Also be aware that some wineries may be setting time limits on customers in order to accommodate a thorough cleaning of tables and other contact points prior to the arrival of the next guests. Time limits also allows the winery to accommodate a maximum number to guests; remember, wineries do need to distance consumers thus minimizing potential business if the winery is crunched for space. Do know that tastings will likely occur outdoors; however, most wineries offered seating arrangements beneath tents, umbrellas, or a canopy of trees. This offers a perfect opportunity to enjoy the lovely Shenandoah landscape!

Flights and Self Guided Tastings: Be prepared for alternatives to traditional tasting experiences at the wineries. Most wineries that we visited offered a flight of self-guided tastings. Some wineries offered a set flight of wines to taste while others presented a number of flights from which to choose. In the latter circumstance, Paul and I each selected a different flight which then offered an opportunity to sample a maximum number of wines. Flights were usually served in plastic cups on a tray which was labeled with the wines offered in the flight. However, some of the wineries did serve flights in glasses that were arranged either on a paddle or came to the table via a specialized hook to accommodate wine glasses. The library tasting at Barboursville, for example, offered this sort of service. At least two of the wineries served flights by presenting them in small bottles that the consumer could then pour into a cup or glass. Some tasters may balk at plastic cups; however, keep in mind that this minimizes contact between staff and potentially contaminated surfaces—-cups can be tossed into the trash by the customer after use. So if sipping wine out of a plastic cup is a bridge too far then either bring your own wine glass from home or request/purchase a logo glass from the winery. Pour from the plastic into the glass, and you’re ready to enjoy!

Glass/Bottle Purchases Only: A few wineries on our trip did not offer flights but did offer purchases that could be enjoyed on the property. Again, plan ahead to avoid disappointment if you were expecting something else. Tasting associates can direct you to a particular wine that may suit your palate. Sip on a glass of your favorite wine while appreciating spectacular mountain views, fluttering butterflies, or summer blooms. Bought a bottle? Remember that a bottle purchase can always be re-corked and brought home. And yes, you may be offered a plastic cup. See above—-bring a glass from home or purchase a logo glass from the winery and bring home a souvenir of your visit.

Masks: Yes—-wear them. Wear a face covering to converse with a tasting associate, to enter the building to use the restroom, or when you are not otherwise sipping wine. Masks may be removed when drinking or eating. Also, respect distanced seating arrangements and avoid moving furniture.

Future posts will provide a general review of wineries that we visited along with the wines that we enjoyed. I will admit to not keeping detailed tasting notes—-our aim was to enjoy our time away from seclusion of home. However, I will close with a teaser of one wine that we enjoyed with dinner recently, and that was the Michael Shaps Petit Manseng blended with a bit of Rousanne. Dinner included a plate of seared scallops topped with white wine sauce and capers then served beside mango relish and jasmine rice sprinkled with cilantro parsley.

Make plans to visit your favorite Virginia wineries and be sure to include one that you have not tried before. I emphasize the word plan—-planning avoids disappointments. Of course, be respectful of tasting associates and other wine tasters and follow safety protocols. Wherever you decide to go, please mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you!

Virginia Wine Time Begins Phase 1

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Yes, Paul and I are behind by one phase, but we are beginning to venture out. We do appreciate Nancy Bauer’s regular updates on wineries and their practices as things begin to open up a bit more. True to our last post, we have gone to wineries that offer either reservations only and/or open on weekdays. We were eager to get back on the wine trail even if on a limited basis.

Our first venture was to Linden in late May. Easy to reserve outdoor seating here, and we could not have picked a lovelier day to visit the winery. We enjoyed a bottle of the 2016 Claret with our picnic snacks included mortadella, Virginia ham, olives, and fresh berries. Our table was located in a prime spot on the crush pad, and we were entertained by barn swallows that flitted about the property. Jim Law stopped by for a chat, and he was very excited about the upcoming release of the 2018 Chardonnay Village; in fact, guests at Linden were treated to a sneak pour of this easy-sipper.

Gray Ghost Vinyeards was our destination on a weekday excursion to Amissville. We were treated to the aromas of vines in bloom, and we secured an outdoor table that allowed us to appreciate the immaculate vineyards. A tasting was available at Gray Ghost so we were able to catch up on new releases that included the crisp 2019 Seyval Blanc. Our picnic basket included smoked turkey, brie, almonds, and melon, and the wine of choice was the 2016 Chardonnay Reserve.

A trip to Breaux Vineyards last week was our final winery visit, and we reserved a table for outdoor seating on a weekday. Again—-easy process. No tastings at Breaux but a full range of wines by the bottle were available to enjoy while dining outdoors. Chèvre and manchego cheeses came along for lunch along with rosemary crackers and herbed turkey slices. Our selection of the 2019 Sauvignon Blanc Reserve done in a Fume style proved to be the perfect pairing for yet another afternoon of gorgeous weather and vineyard views. Paul was also able to catch up on collecting membership wines that included the 2015 Nebbiolo; Breaux Vineyards is well known for its success with that variety, so we look forward to appreciating this one after a rest on the wine rack.

We will probably stay in our own Phase 1 for a bit longer. However, we can attest to the caution taken by the wineries that we have visited. Wine associates wore face coverings, tables were distanced, and other customers were respectful of protocols. For those who wish to be extra cautious, wineries that are open during the weekdays might be the way to go since this is a way to avoid crowds. Whatever reopening phase in which readers find themselves, consider a visit to the wineries mentioned in this post. Please mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you!

Re-Opening Virginia – Our Plans During Phase 1

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Paul and I began this blog 15 years ago due to our desire to promote excellent wine being produced by Virginia winemakers. This has become both a hobby and a passion for both us, and we sorely miss being on the wine trails due to COVID-19 restrictions. The phase 1 of re-opening begins this weekend, and we are sure that winery owners and winemakers are relieved to see some light at the end of a bleak tunnel. Trust me, we are eager for a return to normal that includes a resumption of our local wine travels. However, we are taking a cautious stance on this matter and will be waiting a bit longer before hitting the wine trails. Here is why:

1. Health—-Paul suffered a heart attack in December and therefore belongs to a demographic that would struggle to recover from this vicious virus. He (and I, his spouse) would prefer to wait a while longer to be certain that it is indeed safe to venture out to the wineries. This leads me to reason #2:

2. Behavior of others during phase 1—-I predict that wineries will be descended upon by hoards of stir-crazy customers including “re-openers” who have been agitating for this to happen. We have seen similar scenes of crowds at beaches, restaurants, etc. in other states that have re-opened, and it was frightening to see the lack of regard for safety protocols put into place for re-opening. No face coverings + lack of social distancing=disregard for the health of others. Will a similar scenario play itself out at Virginia wineries? This leads me to reason #3:

3. Winery practices during phase 1—-We will pay attention to plans put forth by wineries to keep customers safe. Will there be enforcement of safety protocols? If so, how? Will there be a limit on crowds? Larger crowds=more touch points to maintain. Is it realistic to expect that bathrooms, for example, will be sanitized on a constant basis if unlimited numbers of customers are allowed to frequent the winery? If we decide to hit the wine trail later in phase 1, we intend to favor wineries that implement a reservations only/limited numbers approach, because that seems to be most realistic way of maintaining control over all factors mentioned here.

In the meantime, we will continue to order wine from Virginia wineries, participate in virtual wine tastings (we have learned so much from these), and pour Virginia wine at our virtual happy hours. To those who intend to venture out this weekend, please abide by safety practices put into place by the wineries so that they can indeed continue to carefully re-open. Of course, do enjoy yourselves, and let us know of a new release that you savored. Did you visit a winery that you read about on this blog? If so, please mention to your server that Virginia Wine Time sent you!

COVID and Impacts on Local Wineries

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The current COVID pandemic has impacted all of us in so many ways. One impact is the ability to visit and enjoy local wineries. Stay at home orders must be taken seriously, and local wineries have adjusted accordingly. Needless to say, this will have significant consequences for local wineries—-much of their products are sold directly from the winery. Of course, most wineries offer wine-related events such as vertical tastings, wine dinners, etc., and these have all been postponed or cancelled due to COVID. However, there are certain steps that readers can undertake to be certain that the wine keeps flowing from local wineries. Here are a few suggestions:

1. Visit winery websites or call wineries to order your favorite Virginia wines. Some may be waiving shipping fees during the current health crisis. Others may be offering specials on packs of certain wines. Keswick Vineyards, for example, offers three-packs of selected white wines, red wines, etc.

2. Find out when your favorite wineries are hosting virtual tastings and participate in them. Tailor these to coincide with wines that you have purchased online.

3. Host or attend a virtual happy hour and pour Virginia wine.

4. Find out if your favorite wineries are offering gift cards during the current crisis.

5. Purchase local wines from your neighborhood wine shop. If it does not offer local wines as a selection, now might be a good time to suggest to the proprietor that he/she does so.

6. Give shout outs to local wineries on social media when you are enjoying their wines.

Please feel free to add to the list! We are all anxious for the COVID crisis to be over; in the meantime, let’s all do what we must to stay healthy. Until we can all meet again at a favorite winery, consider the options listed above to support the local wine industry. Cheers from Virginia Wine Time!

Quality Prevails at Capstone

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Capstone Vineyards is indeed a rare gem in the ever-growing Virginia wine industry. This small operation requires an appointment for tasting in its small but quaint tasting room. Owners Dave and Andrea Adams comprise both the vineyard management team and the tasting room staff. The tasting menu offers four high-quality wines for a seated tasting; however, the ability to taste these wines may be for a limited time only—-only grapes from the 2015-2016 growing season were bottled. Rare indeed!

The Adams duo caught the wine bug while visiting California wine country in Sonoma; however, they decided to realize their dream in Virginia. They planted a 13 acre vineyard in Linden (yes, near that Linden) and varieties include the Bordeaux grapes minus malbec, muscat, sauvignon blanc, Chenin blanc, and chardonnay. The vineyard benefits from a south-facing slope and a 1300 foot elevation, and soil composition includes clay, sandy loam, and gravel. Capstone’s first harvest occurred in 2015 with Virginia wine guru Jim Law in charge of a custom crush of their grapes. Law also crafted the wines that comprised the 2015 as well as the 2016 releases.

And the wines? With quality vineyard planning and management coupled with expert wine making, what could go wrong? The crisp 2016 Chardonnay presented notes of lemon/lime and pear and a zesty finish. Chablis lovers should enjoy this one especially when paired with oysters or other shell fish. The 2015 Merlot demonstrated the grape’s potential in Virginia—-aged in neutral oak, its juicy entry led to flavors of blackberry and cherry; a note of anise provided an extra nuance. Tasters in the group suggested this one as an everyday wine to serve with light fare; however, I might enjoy with lean beef too.

The complexity factor increased with the structured 2016 Vintner’s Blend, a mix of cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, and petit verdot. Notes of smoke and cedar gave way to blackberry and black currant flavors. Nice acidity suggested that this one could hang out on the rack for a couple of years. Lamb chops came to mind as I sipped and savored. Our tasting finished with the 2016 Fielder’s Choice which includes merlot, cabernet franc, and cabernet sauvignon. Dark fruit prevailed on both the nose and palate, and I did catch a whiff of tobacco too. This is a fuller-bodied wine that should partner well with heavier beef, chops, roasts, etc.

So why make an appointment now? Dave and Andrea Adams’ vision may not include a long-term commitment to the retail end of the industry. In fact, they sold their grapes from the 2017 through the 2019 harvests. Vineyard management and the ability to enjoy their lovely mountain landscape drives their passion. Tasting room management and all that it entails? Maybe not. Therefore, they are using the limited ability to taste wine by appointment and perhaps even an odd weekend that is open to the public as a testing time to determine if that is a direction to pursue. We hope that they do! These wines definitely meet the standard for excellence. Please make your appointment to Capstone Vineyards as soon as possible, and mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you!

The Law of Evolution

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We are all familiar with Darwin’s scientific theory of evolution; however, winemakers have their own viticultural theory of evolution. We recently became familiar with Jim Law’s theory of evolution at a recent tasting event at Linden fitfully called, “Evolution.”

Jim Law’s reputation as the pioneer of excellent winemaking in Virginia is well known. Law bottled his first vintage in 1987, and this included a Cabernet Sauvignon that was tasted at the event. He described this vintage and those of the 1990s as years of understanding vineyard management with a struggle to achieve high expectations. The primary expectation was that wines expressed the terroir, or sense of place, while presenting a balance of acidity and alcohol. Jim’s trip to Bordeaux vineyards in the early 2000s was described by him as the time when the “light bulb went off”, and it was then that Law, already considered an accomplished winemaker, took his own evolution as a winemaker to a different direction. Under the direction of vineyard managers in Bordeaux, a re-evaluation of vineyard management at Linden Vineyards Hardscrabble site took place. This included both red and white wine varietals especially Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Vines that were not appropriately placed and thus presented ripening challenges were ripped up, and new vines were planted to take advantage of the site’s unique terroir and micro-climate. The transition year was the 2007 vintage, and it was the 2007 Hardscrabble Red that was included in the session’s tasting.

It was by tasting through the vintages of Hardscrabble Reds and Hardscrabble Chardonnays that we could witness the results of this evolutionary process. Law described the 1987 Cabernet Sauvignon as the result of his “wild cowboy days” when he was still learning best vineyard and winemaking practices. It was indeed a treat to taste this one with its sweet fruit, cedar, and savory characteristics. Gone too since the wild west days is the use of American oak barrels that Jim favored in 1987. The 2009 Hardscrabble Red, two vintages past the transition phase, was stunning. Dark fruit and plum notes with nice acidity and fruit through the palate was framed by velvety tannins, and better-placed vines took advantage of a dry yet cool summer that resulted in slow, even ripening. The 2016 vintage was fourth in the line up of red wines, and it presented fresh cherry and cola on the palate; young with good length, Jim believed that this vintage of Hardscrabble Red will hit its stride in eight years.

Evolution perhaps would be meaningless without passion, and vineyard work is truly Jim Law’s passion. However, Law seemed even more committed to his Chardonnay site that created the Hardscrabble Chardonnay. Chardonnay from Burgundy had been his father’s love, and Jim was allowed to sample the pleasures of white Burgundy wines at a very young age. This in turn led to Jim’s own desire to know more about wine, wine regions, winemaking, etc.; of course, the rest of history. A sampling of Chardonnay from Virginia’s Naked Mountain Vineyard in the 1980s convinced him that Virginia could produce stunning results from Chardonnay at a time when big, buttery Napa styles were the rage. The 2012 Hardscrabble Chardonnay was the earliest vintage offered for tasting, and here we tasted the product of older vines on the Hardscrabble site. Rich orchard fruit and lovely texture on the palate made for an elegant wine that Law declared had hit its “sweet spot.” His own favorite was the 2013 vintage with a fruit profile similar to the 2012 but leaner on the palate with a distinct mineral note. I favored the 2015 vintage with its juicy apple and pear presentation and generous feel on the palate. The white flight ended with the exquisite (and still evolving) 2017 Hardscrabble Chardonnay that seemed a bit riper on the nose and more acidic on the palate than the other vintages.

The witness to evolution continued with a trip to the cellar, and here we tasted barrel samples of the 2019 Chardonnay that will eventually make up the Village Chardonnay; picked from young, four year old vines, this one was all fresh apple in the mouth. It was resting in older, neutral oak barrels. (The 2019 growing season, already being heralded by local winemakers as one of the best in at least 10 years, was hot and dry.) A contrast to this vivacious youngster was a sample of the 2019 Chardonnay from the hardscrabble site. Produced from older vines planted in the 1980s, it was softer on the nose with better acidity and yet a rounder palate. The session concluded with two barrel samples of 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon from the Hardscrabble site; the first sample seemed soft with fresh cherry notes. However, the second sample seemed more tannic with blackberry and plum flavors. Jim confided that a blending trial for the 2019 Hardscrabble Red would be taking place on the Monday after our session that weekend, and these Cabernet samples will be part of the decision making process.

Evolving to achieve an expected standard of excellence best describes Jim Law as a vineyard manager and winemaker. We learned so much about this evolutionary process both by Jim’s testimony to his own process as well as by tasting the results. At the end of the session, we also appreciated his hard work and dedication. We will continue to appreciate wines at Linden, both those that have evolved and those that are evolving. Be sure to attend one of Jim Law’s educational sessions or plan a trip to the tasting room to experience the excellent wines there. Of course, mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you!

New (To Us) Wineries

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As summer finally gives way to autumn, we reflect on wineries that, while open for a while, are new to our palates. Here we give brief reflections on those visits.

Effingham Manor Winery: This is a Pearmund operation and the tasting room is actually a historic home. We heard that it is haunted, but any ghosts and goblins were well behaved while we were there. We enjoyed the medium-bodied 2016 Chardonnay with its notes of pear and apple. For hearty beef dishes, try the 2016 Meritage—-blackberry and cherry elements were accompanied by tobacco and spice notes. The 2018 Rose is crafted from the Chambourcin grape, and this off-dry offering should please any palate.

Septenary – The Winery at Seven Oaks Farm: We were impressed with this winery. A start with the Sparkling NV had us hooked, and then led to the elegant, creamy Chardonnay 2017 with its pear notes and vanilla finish. Of the red wines, we favored the complex Carriage House 2016 and the fuller-bodied Coleman 2015 with its ripe berry nose and flavors of blackberry, plum and dried herbs. Enjoy a glass of a favorite wine while taking in the lovely grounds—-we will return to this winery!

Walsh Family Wine: Nate Walsh continues to produce quality wines, and this time he is doing so from the former North Gate Winery. Walsh purchased the facility and vineyards from former owners and winemakers of North Gate Winery, Mark and Vicki Fedor. Friend and fellow blogger Kurt Jensen (Wine About Virginia) joined us for a tasting of Walsh’s latest releases. We enjoyed the crisp 2018 Sauvignon Blanc but saved our accolades for the 2017 Merlot with its dark cherry elements and fruity palate. The 2017 Staggerwing Tannat was surprisingly accessible; buy now and enjoy now! Serve with braised meats and a crusty baguette on a chilly night.

Plan to visit these wineries if you have not already done so. Please mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you!