The month of April provided us with the opportunity to experience wines in two different ways: from the barrel and from the library. Glen Manor Vineyards hosted a barrel tasting which featured developing wines from the 2017 vintage; later in the month, Gray Ghost Vineyards hosted a vertical tasting of their reserve and non-reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. Both events allowed us to revel in the fact that Virginia winemaking has evolved to the point where Virginia wine enthusiasts can discuss vintages and their particular circumstances! Who needs Napa?

Paul and I were eager to sample the sleepers at Glen Manor Vineyards. The 2017 harvest in Virginia has earned glowing reviews from winemakers. Seasonal temperatures (rather than too hot) and a dry harvest (no hurricanes during harvest time) provided winemakers with fruit that ripened on time in Virginia. Winemaker Jeff White was thrilled with the 2017 harvest and used the barrel tasting to feature the components of his red blends. These included the St Ruth and two options for his award-winning Hodder Hill. These blend components were paired along side gluten free and vegan pairings by The Element in Front Royal and local cheeses by Fields of Grace in Remington.

Blend #1 featured the 2017 Merlot and 2017 Cabernet Franc components of St. Ruth. We tasted each individual component and then tried our hands at blends the two. We both enjoyed the Cabernet Franc with its rich seed berry characteristics and smoky aromas. After blending, the Franc-heavy mix prevailed. Partners included a curried raisin bar and smoked tomato jam cornbread canapes. Paul devoured the curried raisin bar and declared a success when paired with his own Merlot-dominant blend. As Paul savored the raisin bar, I moved on to Blend #2. This presented another component tasting but this time for the Hodder Hill, and this station provided tasters with the first of two suggested options for the acclaimed Hodder Hill red blend. The first option featured the 2017 Merlot (part feral) and the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon, feral. Feral? Wild? Yes, natural yeasts are allowed to do their thing (ferment). The second option showcased the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2017 Petit Verdot but with added yeast (not natural) yeast. Our preference? On its own, I was a big fan of the feral Cabernet Sauvignon; likewise, Paul, the Merlot fan, gave a nod to the feral Merlot. However, the Blend #2 garnered our vote for favorite blend. Perhaps food had something to do with it. Components of Blend #1 paired well with Gouda cheese and mushroom sushi—-smoky, earthy foods; Blend #2 dazzled with Virginia Monterey Jack cheese and quinoa rice cakes topped with rillette of roasted tomato, carrot, and sweet potato—-texture, tannins, and savory.

We share the enthusiasm for the 2017 vintage due to our experience at Glen Manor, and The Gray Ghost vertical event allowed us to step back in time to appreciate past vintages of Cabernet Sauvignon. This event features both reserve and non reserve Cabernets from the 1999, 2001, 2005, 2007, and 2009 vintages. The reserve wine benefit from extra oak aging and malolactic fermentation; however, the non reserve wines more than held their own. I was a fan of the 1999 and 2009 vintages of both styles. In 1999, winemaker Al Kellert was using both American and French oak barrels which explained the spicier elements of the eldest statesman in the lineup. A transition to all French oak barrels was completed after 2005; both the 2007 and 2009 presented fruitier profiles while maintaining a fuller mouth feel. Paul was a fan of the 2007 Reserve and the 1999 non reserve. We both appreciated the age-worthiness of these wines.

The wines were paired with a complement of foods prepared by co-winemaker Cheryl Kellert, and the menu included venison teriyaki, London broil with mushroom sauce, chicken with bowtie pasta and tomato sauce, and meatballs simmered in salsa. The evening concluded with a chocolate mousse cake for dessert partnered with the award-winning 2014 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.

Oh, and who says that Virginia can’t produce quality Cabernet Sauvignon? Location makes the difference, and Glen Manor Vineyards and Gray Ghost Vineyards seem to benefit from excellent vineyard sites. Both events provided us with the ongoing educational experience that is Virginia wine. Visit these excellent Virginia wineries to taste their current releases; perhaps even sign up for a library, barrel, or vertical event! Please mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you.