We Rediscover Cana Vineyards

Paul and I continue to slowly travel the wine trails of Virginia, and our last trek took us to Cana Vineyards. We had not been to Cana in quite a few years, and we learned that the winery is now owned by Lisa and Bryce Petty. They purchased the vineyard and winery from the Bell family in 2018. Co-owners Michelle and Tom Grant are now also part of the Cana team. The Cana facility now includes the expansive Sunset Pavilion which provided for adequate spacing of customers on a very cold afternoon.

Another noted change from our last visit, though, was the improved quality of the wines. I am an unashamed Chardonnay lover, and Cana’s 2019 Chardonnay hit all the right notes for me. It was elegant and well balanced with lovely pear and apple aromas, while the palate was treated to pear and citrus flavors accented with fall spice and a touch of oak. The 2019 Petit Manseng was another success and an example of what this variety can do in Virginia when in the right hands. Fresh tropical notes with a nice, refreshing acidity ended with a dry finish and destined to pair well with any seafood dish. The 2018 Le Mariage, a blend of Bordeaux varieties with Merlot taking the lead, presented a juicy berry entry on the palate followed by a spicy edge on the finish. Remember, 2018 was a very tricky vintage due to lots of rain and not a lot of sunshine in most parts of Virginia; however, a newcomer to Virginia wine would not have been the wiser after sampling this well-crafted blend. Paul’s favorite was the Cabernet Franc produced from the stellar 2017 harvest. Raspberry and tobacco notes melded with cherry flavors to present a rich wine made more complex by barrel-aging for 15 months. If leg of lamb is on the menu, it might be a good idea to have a bottle of this one on the wine rack as a pairing option.

Our tasting experience was enhanced by the expert knowledge of Don, a familiar face to us from previous visits to Cana (and Chrysalis before that!). Don got us up to speed on the various changes at the winery since our last visit which prompted me to inquire about the winemaker responsible for the improvements noted in the wines. He informed us Melanie Natoli assumed the duties of winemaker and vineyard manager in 2015; we then recalled that Melanie studied winemaking at Fabbioli Cellars. We decided it was time to learn more about Melanie, and she agreed to participate in an interview. (Ordinarily, we would arrange to do this in person, but—-covid.) Continue reading to learn more about the very talented Melanie Natoli.

Melanie Natoli
Photo borrowed from the Cana Vineyards website.

1. Why did you decide to switch careers from being in physical therapy to becoming a wine makers?
I followed my heart. When I make big decisions, I go with my gut. Growing up, no one in my family drank, so I found wine later. Hence, it wasn’t my first career choice, but when I found it, I knew it was my path.

 

 

2. Have you found any comparisons between being a physical therapist and a winemaker? Any similar challenges? Rewards?
Good question. They both come from the heart. I’ve always loved science and I chose physical therapy so I could be of service to others. Compassion is rooted in the heart, and so is creative passion for art, winemaking. As a winemaker I still get to connect with people, just in a different way.

3. Why did you decide to become a winemaker in Virginia with its various challenges? Why not someplace like California, for example?
Virginia is where life put me. Virginia is where my love and interest in wine grew. I was close to moving to California and going back to school for a degree in winemaking, but I found/made my own path here and I’m so glad I did. The challenges we face here may cause me to lose a lot of sleep at times, but they’re also what keeps it exciting. There’s always going to be more to learn and I love that.

4. You were awarded Woman Winemaker of the Year at the Women’s International Wine Competition in 2017. Winemaking is still dominated by men, though. Do you think it is still more difficult for women to break into the field and then earn recognition for their achievements?
Sometimes. Starting in this industry as a woman and someone coming in with no experience or connections, I do feel I had to work harder to prove myself, so I have. I’ve had a few interactions that weren’t fair, but I kept my head down, worked harder, and poured myself into my wine. Now I’m proud of what I put in the bottle and I have confidence in my abilities, so that kind of stuff can roll off my back. I’ve only made wine in Virginia, but I have a suspicion the challenge would be greater in other regions. Our industry is young enough that a long history of a good ol boys club wasn’t built. Although there may still be more men working in our industry, the women are here and making their mark. The supportive community of Virginia winemakers is one of the things that makes our region so amazing.

5. What grape varieties do you grow at Cana? Which do you consider to be the flagships at Cana? Do you have plans to expand your portfolio beyond what is currently planted?
Reds: Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Norton
Whites: Petit Maseng, Viognier

We have 2 wines that I produce from our estate fruit. The Unite’ Reserve is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. The blend will vary depending on what shines in the vineyard each year. The other estate wine is our Petit Manseng which often has some of the estate Viognier blended in.

We only have 7 acres on the estate, so we also source from some fantastic partner growers. The 2 estate wines have a special place in my heart because I work the vineyard all season, so those wines I craft every step of the way from budbreak to bottle, but I have some other favorites. I’ve been working with Albarino since 2015, my first vintage at Cana, and I’ve had so much fun developing it. And did you think you’d talk to me without hearing about rose’? That is my number one love. If I’m going to be remembered as a winemaker for one thing, I want it to be dry rose’. Right now, we have 2 in our portfolio, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

As far as new wines for the portfolio. I have two new red varietals hitting the bottle in April, so keep an eye out for them at the end of this year. I’d like to bring back Rkatsiteli, and I always want to make more rose’.

6. You have won a trip to a tropical island for a much needed vacation. You can bring three of your favorite Cana wines along on the trip. Which wines and vintages would they be?
I love this one! I also love the idea of a trip to a tropical island, much needed indeed! Since I make 2 rose’s, that’s 2 of the bottles! Because rose’. The 3rd is a tough choice, because I really love my Albarino, but Petit Manseng would be the perfect pairing for somewhere tropical. That’d be a gametime decision, when do I leave? And for vintages, 2019 or 2020. Those are my favorite white vintages so far, because each year I get to dial it in a little better. Although I may go 2017 for the Petit Maseng, I really loved the acid sweetness balance on that bottle.

We know that we will return to Cana Vineyards sooner rather than later. However, if readers get there before we do, please be sure to mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you!

Delaplane Cellars Visit

The COVID pandemic has kept us from visiting wineries as much as we would like. We still need to pick up club wines and taste what new wines are on tasting menus though. Saturday we decided we would take a trip to Delaplane Cellars and pick up our club wines and enjoy a tasting. We planned to get their early to avoid any possible crowds. And we made a reservation ahead of time. We put on our masks and made our way to Delaplane.

We started with the current self guided tasting. We tasted four of the current vintages. We tasted the 2019 Petit Manseng, 2017 Benevino Cabernet Franc, 2017 Cinq 8 and the 2017 Williams Gap. Warren jotted down some notes for each one.

2019 Petit Manseng – apple, honeyed texture, balanced

2017 Benevino Cabernet Franc – smoky nose, cedar, cherry, mocha, blackberries, dried herb, juicy palate

2017 Cinq 8 – juicy nose, tobacco, anise, menthol, cherry, currant, a little chewy, acidity gives structure

2017 Williams Gap – tight on nose, swirl leather, blackberry, tobacco, surprisingly juicy, cherry palate

After our tasting Matt offered to let us try the 2019 Chardonnay Reserve. We were thinking of having it with our lunch items. He was not wrong in his suggestion! Warren made some notes for this one as well.

2019 Chardonnay Reserve – neutral oak, rich pear, chamomile, pear/apple, palate lingers for a while, elegant.

We decided to have a bottle of the 2019 Chardonnay Reserve with our lunch. It was delicious and paired well with our lunch items. The views at Delaplane are spectacular. Being inside the tent with just a few other patrons socially distanced made enjoying the views even better. We felt completely safe and comfortable during our visit. After lunch we split a glass of the 2017 Cinq 8. We enjoyed it with a few dark chocolates they provided.

Before leaving we picked up our club wines and added another three to make it an even case. We want to thank all the guys at Delaplane for making our visit a nice one. If you haven’t been to Delaplane lately, it’s time to make a reservation and visit. When you do, tell them Virginia Wine Time sent you!

Happy New Year!

We have not posted in a while, but rest assured that while we have not really been on the Virginia wine trails, we have indeed been enjoying Virginia wines. We always host a NYE party for friends to ring in the new year with lots of food and wine; however, that was not the case this year for obvious reasons. Paul and I did, though, include Virginia wines in this year’s low key event. We paired Blenheim’s 2019 Gruner Veltliner with Asian slaw and mini crab cakes, and we partnered Beef Vidala (filet mignon topped with crab meat) with Glen Manor’s 2015 Hodder Hill. Our wine racks, though, lacked Virginia bubbles; however, Schramsberg bubbly helped to ring in 2021.

We are hopeful that Virginia Wine Time will be posting more often this year. In the meantime, let us know of new wineries to visit—-we are making a list and checking it twice! Do you plan to visit the wineries mentioned in this post? Please mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you!

Reflecting on Summer 2020

Fall is already upon us, and we look forward to cooler weather and changing colors. This usually means changing wine tasting habits to heavier pours and heartier meals. However, our trip to the Charlottesville area reminded me that some wines, even Virginia wines, are versatile and meant to be enjoyed throughout the year. Here I will present some examples based on our tasing experience in August.

White Wines:
Albarino and Sauvignon Blanc: These two varieties continue to show well in certain regions of Virginia. Micro-climate is key with these. I continue to be impressed with the Albarino produced by Afton Mountain Vineyards, and the 2019 vintage is very good. One bottle came back to our cottage for a crab cake dinner, and three other bottles came home for future enjoyment. Speaking of seafood, the local oyster season should continue through the fall and both the 2018 Sauvignon Blanc from Stinson Vineyards and 2019 vintage of the same grape from Veritas are option to consider when enjoying freshly shucked bivalves from local watersheds.

Chardonnay: I am a fan of Chardonnay, and I don’t care what ABCers think about it! Virginia Chardonnay often sits in the shadow of the more marketed Viognier; however, I think Chardonnay is the more consistent hitmaker. Styles range, of course, so taste and purchase your own favorites. Pollak Vineyards’ 2018 vintage presents a more fruit-forward, lighter-bodied style while the 2018 vintage from Hark Vineyards presents a fuller-bodied style complete with a toasty edge consistent with some barrel aging. The 2019 bottling from Keswick Vineyards was my favorite—-lots of apple and pear notes with enough body to enjoy on its own or with food. Shellfish, roasted poultry, creamy cheeses—-all should play well with this Burgundy-style Chardonnay.

Petit Manseng: This grape continues to evolve as a contender for the Virginia All-Star variety. It is also one that we continue to grapple with—-do we prefer this as a dessert wine or something to serve with the main meal? Different wineries produce different styles and range from acidic to sweet and everything in between. To be honest, only a few have captured my attention enough to bring home; however, the Michael Shaps 2017 Petit Manseng did indeed capture my palate. Blended with 11% Rousanne and aged in 50% new French oak and 50% neutral French oak barrels for a total of nine months, this Petit Manseng captured the tropical fruit notes and full mouth feel of Rhone white wines. Poultry, including Thanksgiving turkey, herb-crusted pork loin and other roasted fare should partner nicely with this blend.

Rosé:
Never fall into the trap that Rose is a summer sipper. Rosés are the most versatile wines, and they are produced in both dry and off-dry styles. In Virginia, some Rosés feature Merlot or Cabernet Franc, and others capture the fruity essence of Chambourcin. One of our favorites was the Crose 2019 from King Family Vineyards. Dry and reminiscent of Provence-style Rosé, we always have bottles of this one on the wine rack throughout the year. Serve with Thanksgiving dinner, New Years’ Eve party, etc. The same could be said of the 2018 Rosé from Afton Mountain Vineyards—-dry, crisp and refreshing.

Red Wines:
Cabernet Franc: Always a consistent favorite of Virginia wine lovers. Most of the wineries that we visited were offering the lighter-bodied 2018 vintage. Any of these could be an option for Thanksgiving dinner when a lighter-bodied red might be in order. The 2018 vintage from Hark Vineyards, for example, exhibited soft red berry and subtle herbal notes that could partner with turkey stuffed with herbs. On the other hand, feel free to serve these with grilled chicken while the weather is warm.

Merlot: This is another variety that can do well in Virginia. Paul is a fan of this grape, and he enjoyed the 2017 Merlot from Chateau MerrillAnne. A fruity palate and nice acidity makes it a favorite to pair with either grilled filet of beef or wait to pour with a roasted beef tenderloin when the leaves have fallen from the trees. The same is true of the 2017 vintage from Pollak Vineyards—-pour now with a final grilled beef dinner or allow to rest a bit longer on the wine rack.

Red Blends: I think Bordeaux-style blends always present the best from Virginia red wines. We currently have a 2017 Melange a Quatre, a gold medal winner from Revelation Vineyards, on our wine rack and is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon (+1% Tannat). We were also able to sample the blockbuster 2019 Trevillian from Keswick Vineyards, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Of course, no comment on blends would be complete without mentioning the always delicious, always complex Octagon. We indulged in a library tasting of the reserve wines at Barboursville, and the Octagon XVIII Edition 2015 was stunning. Any of blends mentioned here would be a contender for either aging a bit longer or enjoying now (decant first) with heartier meats or braised fare on a chilly evening.

We continue to venture cautiously to Virginia wineries, and we were lucky to be able to visit the wineries mentioned in this post during the weekdays. Now that we are back in weekend mode, we will return to more selective visits. Please plan a tasting (but plan ahead) to the wineries mentioned in this post. Of course, do mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you!

Virginia Wine Time Begins Its Phase 2

We continue to be a couple of weeks behind the rest of the local area in regard to venturing out; however, we are indeed getting back however slowly on the wine trails. Paul and I took a short vacation to the Charlottesville area recently, and we made full use of our time to visit several of the wineries there. We will capture our experiences in the next couple of posts.

*Disclaimer: This trip was taken almost three weeks ago; needless to say, we are behind in posting. Therefore, we avoided associated specific wineries with the practices described below since these protocols may have changed since then. The key words will always be “plan ahead.”

Our wine ventures to the Monticello AVA were scheduled for weekday visits to the wineries, and we do this to avoid crowds—-we like to maximize the distancing potential! The focus of this post will be a summary of how wineries in the area honored Phase 2 guidelines while offering optimal service to customers. Future posts will be more specific about wineries, wines, and our favorite pours.

We can report that wineries are indeed complying with state guidelines in regard to Phase 2 of reopening, and we know that these are relieved to be able to open the doors (and pours) once again. However, keeping winery staff and customers safe has added new layers to business practices; in particular, the tasting experience has had to be amended so that customers can taste wines before purchase and/or remain for an extended period of time beyond a tasting. Here is what we encountered:

Reservations: Some wineries required reservations but others did not. Plan ahead to avoid disappointment. Know which wineries you would like to visit and then either visit the websites or call to be certain in order to avoid disappointment. Also be aware that some wineries may be setting time limits on customers in order to accommodate a thorough cleaning of tables and other contact points prior to the arrival of the next guests. Time limits also allows the winery to accommodate a maximum number to guests; remember, wineries do need to distance consumers thus minimizing potential business if the winery is crunched for space. Do know that tastings will likely occur outdoors; however, most wineries offered seating arrangements beneath tents, umbrellas, or a canopy of trees. This offers a perfect opportunity to enjoy the lovely Shenandoah landscape!

Flights and Self Guided Tastings: Be prepared for alternatives to traditional tasting experiences at the wineries. Most wineries that we visited offered a flight of self-guided tastings. Some wineries offered a set flight of wines to taste while others presented a number of flights from which to choose. In the latter circumstance, Paul and I each selected a different flight which then offered an opportunity to sample a maximum number of wines. Flights were usually served in plastic cups on a tray which was labeled with the wines offered in the flight. However, some of the wineries did serve flights in glasses that were arranged either on a paddle or came to the table via a specialized hook to accommodate wine glasses. The library tasting at Barboursville, for example, offered this sort of service. At least two of the wineries served flights by presenting them in small bottles that the consumer could then pour into a cup or glass. Some tasters may balk at plastic cups; however, keep in mind that this minimizes contact between staff and potentially contaminated surfaces—-cups can be tossed into the trash by the customer after use. So if sipping wine out of a plastic cup is a bridge too far then either bring your own wine glass from home or request/purchase a logo glass from the winery. Pour from the plastic into the glass, and you’re ready to enjoy!

Glass/Bottle Purchases Only: A few wineries on our trip did not offer flights but did offer purchases that could be enjoyed on the property. Again, plan ahead to avoid disappointment if you were expecting something else. Tasting associates can direct you to a particular wine that may suit your palate. Sip on a glass of your favorite wine while appreciating spectacular mountain views, fluttering butterflies, or summer blooms. Bought a bottle? Remember that a bottle purchase can always be re-corked and brought home. And yes, you may be offered a plastic cup. See above—-bring a glass from home or purchase a logo glass from the winery and bring home a souvenir of your visit.

Masks: Yes—-wear them. Wear a face covering to converse with a tasting associate, to enter the building to use the restroom, or when you are not otherwise sipping wine. Masks may be removed when drinking or eating. Also, respect distanced seating arrangements and avoid moving furniture.

Future posts will provide a general review of wineries that we visited along with the wines that we enjoyed. I will admit to not keeping detailed tasting notes—-our aim was to enjoy our time away from seclusion of home. However, I will close with a teaser of one wine that we enjoyed with dinner recently, and that was the Michael Shaps Petit Manseng blended with a bit of Rousanne. Dinner included a plate of seared scallops topped with white wine sauce and capers then served beside mango relish and jasmine rice sprinkled with cilantro parsley.

Make plans to visit your favorite Virginia wineries and be sure to include one that you have not tried before. I emphasize the word plan—-planning avoids disappointments. Of course, be respectful of tasting associates and other wine tasters and follow safety protocols. Wherever you decide to go, please mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you!

Walsh Family Wine

Recently we met up with Kurt from Wine About Virginia at Walsh Family Wine. With all the changes happening at wineries during COVID-19, we wondered how Walsh Family was conducting tastings.

Like many wineries have discovered, they can continue to do tastings with modifications. Walsh Family is offering flights of wines to taste. Each flight consists of three wines you select served in little bottles. A wine glass is provided to sample each wine. I chose to taste the 2018 Chardonnay, the 2019 Rosé and the 2017 En Passant. All three were wonderful.

After our tastings we decided to enjoy a bottle of the sauvignon blanc with our lunch items. It paired nicely with our lunch. It was nice to relax, enjoy food and wine and catch up with Kurt. Because of social distancing, we were able to sit inside to avoid the heat and be comfortably away from others.

We had a chance to chat with Nate and Sarah Walsh. They are enjoying doing their “DrinkWell” virtual tastings on Facebook on Fridays at 5:00 PM. We have participated in a few of them and really enjoyed discovering new wines. You can purchase and have shipped the wines for each virtual tasting. Nate and Sarah have also begun doing corporate virtual tastings….exposing a wider audience to some fantastic wines.

They also shared with us a taste of the 2018 Petit Manning. Beautiful tropical nose with a dry finish with a pear note. It would pair nicely with scallops.

Before leaving we said our goodbyes and purchased our favorites. If you haven’t been to Walsh Family Wine in awhile, it’s time to go back. We felt very comfortable visiting Walsh Family with the COVID 19 restrictions in place. And don’t forget you can participate virtually with their Friday Drink Well virtual tastings. When you visit, tell them Virginia Wine Time sent you!

Romantic Rosé

On a recent Saturday we met some friends at Gray Ghost Vineyards to catch up, do a tasting and enjoy some lunch.

Marketing director Amy Payette conducted our tasting. We worked through all the whites and reds but were most interested in tasting the new Romantic Rosé. This is the first time winemaker Al Kellert has produced a rosé for Gray Ghost. We learned the rosé is made from three different red grapes. It’s a secret which red grapes make up the blend though. We tasted the rosé and were instantly excited to see it is a dry rosé. We love dry rosés. We noted strawberry and raspberry notes with an overall fruity palate. We know this will pair nicely with cheeses, light fair or sandwiches for lunch.

After our tasting we decided to enjoy some rosé with our lunch items. We were socially distancing from other guests at Gray Ghost while we enjoyed our lunch. It was a warm afternoon but the rosé made it cooler. Before leaving we secured a few bottles of the rosé plus some other favorites. Plan a trip to Gray Ghost Vineyards soon to get your own bottle of the new Romantic Rosé. You’ll be glad you did. When you do visit, tell them Virginia Wine Time sent you!

Oh, check out the video that Gray Ghost posted about the new Romantic Rosé and an update on the vineyards.

Week Day Winery Visits

During this time of COVID and busy weekends at wineries, we have decided to visit Virginia wineries during the week. We have done this a few times and found the wineries to be less crowded. A few weeks ago on a Monday we decided to visit Naked Mountain Winery and Vineyards. We hadn’t been there for a few years and it was time too see the changes and taste the current line up of wines.

Upon entering the tasting room (wearing masks of course) we noticed an addition to the tasting room. There was a new room off to the left full of tables and chairs for extra seating. There are no tastings at the bar but they do set up a tasting to do on your own. They have five small glasses with five different wines poured. You taste at your own pace. We tasted the 2017 Catamount Run White, the 2018 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay, the 2019 Naked Mountain Rosé, the 2018 Catamount Run Red and the 2018 Raptor Red.

Our favorites were the 2017 Catamount Run White with its crisp citrus notes and bright acidity and the 2019 Naked Mountain Rosé with its strawberry notes and crisp finish. We were disappointed with the 2018 reds. We found them both to be quite acidic and lacked specific flavors. We think this might have to do with the rough 2018 growing season.

At Naked Mountain there is plenty of space to spread out both indoors and out. They also have several food items for purchase and also allow visitors to bring their own food. Everyone was wearing masks and they are required when indoors.

We brought our own food and decided to try the 2017 Talon. The Talon is a blend of 40% Petit Verdot, 40% Cab Sauv and 20% Cab Franc. We noted cherry on the palate with a hint of spice. This red was also a bit acidic for our taste but it did pair with most of our lunch items.

After purchasing some of our favorites it was time to head home. Plan a trip to Naked Mountain soon….during the week! And if you do tell them Virginia Wine Time sent you!

Virginia Wine Time Begins Phase 1

Yes, Paul and I are behind by one phase, but we are beginning to venture out. We do appreciate Nancy Bauer’s regular updates on wineries and their practices as things begin to open up a bit more. True to our last post, we have gone to wineries that offer either reservations only and/or open on weekdays. We were eager to get back on the wine trail even if on a limited basis.

Our first venture was to Linden in late May. Easy to reserve outdoor seating here, and we could not have picked a lovelier day to visit the winery. We enjoyed a bottle of the 2016 Claret with our picnic snacks included mortadella, Virginia ham, olives, and fresh berries. Our table was located in a prime spot on the crush pad, and we were entertained by barn swallows that flitted about the property. Jim Law stopped by for a chat, and he was very excited about the upcoming release of the 2018 Chardonnay Village; in fact, guests at Linden were treated to a sneak pour of this easy-sipper.

Gray Ghost Vinyeards was our destination on a weekday excursion to Amissville. We were treated to the aromas of vines in bloom, and we secured an outdoor table that allowed us to appreciate the immaculate vineyards. A tasting was available at Gray Ghost so we were able to catch up on new releases that included the crisp 2019 Seyval Blanc. Our picnic basket included smoked turkey, brie, almonds, and melon, and the wine of choice was the 2016 Chardonnay Reserve.

A trip to Breaux Vineyards last week was our final winery visit, and we reserved a table for outdoor seating on a weekday. Again—-easy process. No tastings at Breaux but a full range of wines by the bottle were available to enjoy while dining outdoors. Chèvre and manchego cheeses came along for lunch along with rosemary crackers and herbed turkey slices. Our selection of the 2019 Sauvignon Blanc Reserve done in a Fume style proved to be the perfect pairing for yet another afternoon of gorgeous weather and vineyard views. Paul was also able to catch up on collecting membership wines that included the 2015 Nebbiolo; Breaux Vineyards is well known for its success with that variety, so we look forward to appreciating this one after a rest on the wine rack.

We will probably stay in our own Phase 1 for a bit longer. However, we can attest to the caution taken by the wineries that we have visited. Wine associates wore face coverings, tables were distanced, and other customers were respectful of protocols. For those who wish to be extra cautious, wineries that are open during the weekdays might be the way to go since this is a way to avoid crowds. Whatever reopening phase in which readers find themselves, consider a visit to the wineries mentioned in this post. Please mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you!