Wine enthusiasts may associate vertical tastings with red wines due to the perception that red wines are more age worthy. However, the Chardonnay is one white wine variety that can also lend itself to cellaring and then appreciating later on. Granite Heights Winery offered a master class on this subject recently, and we can report that Chardonnay can indeed reveal its wisdom over time.

The vertical tasting of Chardonnays featured vintages from 2014 through 2020 with the exception of 2019. Winemaker Luke Kilyk kicked off the tasting with a brief history of his experience with the Chardonnay grape and admitted that 2014 was his year to learn; therefore, he opted to retain 2% residual sugar to produce a wine that was pleasing to all palates. However, experience taught him that Chardonnay can be elegant and expressive in regard to place and vintage. The 2014 vintage, therefore, offered a drier palate with a refreshing acidity and bright apple notes. The 2017 vintage can be described as Burgundian with more finesse than its older siblings while the 2018, a wetter growing season, was treated to more oak to present a rounder, fuller-bodied mouth feel. The profile with this one was dominated by pear and pineapple notes with a generous oak kiss at the finish. The 2020 offering, though young, promises to continue in the same vein as its more immediate predecessors with perhaps a greater similarity to the 2017 vintage.

We attended this event with friends who are also Virginia wine lovers, and we paired our vertical flight with the salmon dinner. A vote among the gang of four left me in the minority on which vintage was the favorite—-three of us gave top honors to the lovely 2017 vintage while I, forever beholden to oak, favored 2018. Salmon is a fish that offers flavor and weight, and the 2018 paired most favorably for me. My second choice was—-2017. We all appreciated Luke’s journey as a winemaker; although 2014 was the sweetest of the vintages poured that evening, it did allow us to understand the process of a winemaker discovering his talent. We also enjoyed it with the salmon—-never knock sweeter wines with a fuller-bodied dish or something that is heavily spiced.

I’ve been screaming Yay for Chardonnay even when others were cheering Yay for Viognier. I’ll take the Chardonnay any day! Please visit Granite Heights Winery to taste their excellent wines, especially the Chardonnay. Of course, you must mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you!